Hi strangers! I’m back from the brink of a creative slump, and have a lovely dress to share with you! DKNY Vogue 1421. Wow. This pattern is a gem. It was an absolute delight to sew…partly because the lines of the dress are so interesting and cool, and partly because it was my first time sewing with wool.
HOLY FREAKING COOKOO BIRDS. Why didn’t anyone tell me????
It’s awesome. It’s almost like it WANTS to be sewn. And pressed. And shaped. And licked. Gross you guys. I’d never do that.
I used a lovely grey wool jersey from Mood Fabrics here in New York, and I decided at the very last minute to use a black wool blend for the pieces around the waist. I feel like that’s what made this garment. The details of the design are so so cool and uber flattering, especially with the accent pieces being sewn up in black.
Oddly enough, the pattern was reeeeeally close to fitting me straight out of the envelope, which makes me excited to try another couple of DKNY Vogue patterns I already own. This was the first time I’ve sewn a dress with princess seams, and I loved how easy it made the whole fitting process. I took in a little bit on the front princess seams (I wanted the bodice pretty fitted…more so than in the photo on the envelope), and took up the shoulders quite a bit. Maybe an inch on both the front and back bodice pieces. The jersey stretched more than the instructions called for, so everything needed to be taken in a bit, but there were no major fitting dramas, which felt so amazing!
The only other change I made was installing a completely exposed zip on the back. The directions had me doing a partly exposed zip, and my first attempt was a laugh-riot. I was halfway through attempt #2 when I realized I really just wanted the whole zipper sewn onto the outside of the dress, so I followed this tutorial and it worked a treat. (I’ve always wanted to say that! Is it a British thing?…) I’m SO glad I decided to do it this way… it adds just a touch of edginess, and I think it looks cool with the black accent pieces.
Here’s the dress! I think I see a tried-and-true pattern in my future… (FYI, the skirt section doesn’t naturally curve into the crotch area… Darn wind.)
Here are some detail shots for ya on my dress form…
The dress is fully lined with a grey Bemberg rayon (also from Mood).
In retrospect, I kind of wish I had used a cotton that doesn’t have a swishy sound when I walk. I sound like a party dress walking down the street, which would be all well and good if I were wearing a party dress. Eh. Oh well. The only other regret I have was accidentally serging the edge of the hem before turning up 1/4″ and then another 1″. I have no idea why I serged it. I was watching something on TV and not paying much attention, and before I knew it, I was done hand sewing the entire hem and giving it a final press, and suddenly noticed the big ole’ ridge around the bottom of the dress from that bulky edge. UGH.
I considered ripping out the hem and unpicking the serger stitches, but oddly enough the ridge has started to grow on me. Is there any merit to that at all? Or is that just my lazy brain convincing my other brain to just leave it, and my other brain should convince my lazy brain to suck it up?